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Axo of the spider woman: Black activism in Goya Lopes's patterned fabrics

INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF FASHION STUDIES(2023)

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Abstract
This article delves into the remarkable work and journey of Goya Lopes, an AfroBrazilian designer, entrepreneur and activist. It explores the intersection of fashion and art within her designs of patterned fabrics, which encompass a wide range of everyday and unique garments, household items and more. The discussion highlights pivotal moments in Lopes's career, including her 2008 solo exhibition The African Diaspora in Brazil, her collaborative book Imagens da Diaspora ('Images of the diaspora') with Brazilian historian Gustavo Falcon in 2010 and her 2017 installation Sentidos Afro-Baianos ('Afro-Bahian senses'). Through examining select fabric patterns, the article unveils their significance as integral components of Lopes's ongoing anti-racist activism, which has spanned over five decades from the region of Bahia in northeastern Brazil. Lastly, it delves into Lopes's unique conceptualization of her fabrics as axos, drawing on the Yoruba term for aso ('cloth'), and highlights their role as empowering, protective and militant Afrodiasporic mantles. The article underscores how Lopes employs fashion design as a form of activism and a subtle yet potent means to propagate political ideas.
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Key words
Afro-Brazilian fashion,design,Afro-diasporic design,Afro-Brazilian culture,Bahian culture,textile design,graphic arts,Afro-Brazilian art
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