Development and evaluation of hydrophilic cream bases suitable for custom cosmetic skincare or compounding pharmaceutical dermal products

This study aimed to formulate, prepare and characterize cream bases used to make individualized preparations for patients: compounding pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical preparations. In terms of consistency, FIII, which is formulated with 3% stearic acid, 3.5% polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and 65.5% Centaurea cyanus flower water, can be recommended as a first choice when an easy spreading capacity on the skin is required. Comparative rheological analysis showed a plastic behaviour for all the proposed formulas, while when evaluating the restructuring behaviour during shearing with successive decreasing speeds, a hysteresis loop was observed. The skin tolerance and the degree of hydration obtained after applying the cream were evaluated. Under the experimental conditions adopted in the screening test, the single application of the proposed products showed good compatibility with the skin. The tests on the 6 human subjects for FI, which is formulated with 3% stearic acid, 3% polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and 66% Centaurea cyanus flower water, confirmed an increased level of hydration level, on average by 12.8% compared to the zero moment (when the cream was not applied) and for FIII an increase over 6.5%. From the obtained results, two cream bases for compounding pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical preparations formulas with a lower percentage of incorporated stearic acid can be proposed, respectively FI and FIII.