Facial Biocosmetics Based on Natural Dyes from Amazon Wood Residues

Brenna Couto Nicaretta, Maria Eduarda Cohen da Silva, Cassia Valeria Pinheiro Correa, Jefferson Maia Feitosa,Sara Freitas de Souza,Kelly C. F. Castro,Fernando Wallase Carvalho Andrade,Victor Hugo Pereira Moutinho,Kariane Mendes Nunes

JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE FORESTRY(2023)

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Abstract
The occurrence of several flavonoids with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential properties in wood may have a viable application in the biocosmetic industry. This paper studies the technical viability of redirecting wood residues of the main commercialized Amazonian species, Dipteryx odorata (cumaru), Manilkara huberi (ironwood), Hymenaea courbaril (Brazilian cherry) and Handroanthus serratifolius (yellow ipe), to obtain natural dyes for facial biocosmetics development. For each dye sample, phytochemical profile of phenolic compounds and the total flavonoids content expressed in rutin and quercetin (ug mL-1) was determined. Wood residues extract yield was 6.5% for cumaru, 8.1% for ironwood, 16.3% for Brazilian cherry and 8.8% for yellow ipe. The physical-chemical properties were compliant with the official compendia. TLC-analysis revealed the presence of flavonoids (quercetin) and hydrolyzable tannins (gallic acid). Concentration of total flavonoids content expressed in rutin and quercetin varied between 0.106 to 7.5 and 0.1 to 3.12ug.mL-1, respectively, for all species. Facial biocosmetic formulations with organoleptic properties (appearance, color and odor) suitable for facial use could be obtained from ironwood, Brazilian cherry and yellow ipe dyes. Therefore, Amazon species wood residues reuse is an innovative and sustainable technological strategy to add value to bioproducts of Amazon biodiversity, contributing to the region's socio-economic development.
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Key words
Wood residue reuse, natural dyes, Dipteryx odorata, Manilkara huberi, Hymenaea courbaril, Handroanthus serratifolius, facial biocosmetics
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