NRF2 in dermo‐cosmetic: From scientific knowledge to skin care products

The skin is the organ that is most susceptible to the impact of the exposome. Located at the interface with the external environment, it protects internal organs through the barrier function of the epidermis. It must adapt to the consequences of the harmful effects of solar radiation, the various chemical constituents of atmospheric pollution, and wounds associated with mechanical damage: oxidation, cytotoxicity, inflammation, and so forth. In this biological context, a capacity to adapt to the various stresses caused by the exposome is essential; otherwise, more or less serious conditions may develop accelerated aging, pigmentation disorders, atopy, psoriasis, and skin cancers. Nrf2-controlled pathways play a key role at this level. Nrf2 is a transcription factor that controls genes involved in oxidative stress protection and detoxification of chemicals. Its involvement in UV protection, reduction of inflammation in processes associated with healing, epidermal differentiation for barrier function, and hair regrowth, has been demonstrated. The modulation of Nrf2 in the skin may therefore constitute a skin protection or care strategy for certain dermatological stresses and disorders initiated or aggravated by the exposome. Nrf2 inducers can act through different modes of action. Keap1-dependent mechanisms include modification of the cysteine residues of Keap1 by (pro)electrophiles or prooxidants, and disruption of the Keap1-Nrf2 complex. Indirect mechanisms are suggested for numerous phytochemicals, acting on upstream pathways, or via hormesis. While developing novel and safe Nrf2 modulators for skin care may be challenging, new avenues can arise from natural compounds-based molecular modeling and emerging concepts such as epigenetic regulation.