Analysis of wind generated wave characteristics by SWAN model in Balikpapan Bay

Abstract The initiative to relocate the capital of the Republic of Indonesia from Jakarta to Penajam Paser Utara requires research from various sectors in the area. Since Penajam Paser Utara is located in the coastal zone of Balikpapan Bay, it requires careful preparation. This research aims to examine the characteristics of wind-generated waves in the Balikpapan Bay area from 2016 to 2018. Bathymetry data from BATNAS with a resolution of 0.00166666° and Wind data (U10 wind velocity and direction) from the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) with a resolution of 0.25° × 0.25° were utilized as input data in this study during three years (2016-2018). This research used the SWAN Model to model wind-produced waves to get significant wave values in spatial and time series form and monthly and seasonal wave energy spectrum characteristics. Based on this research, it can be concluded that significant wave height values are strongly correlated with wind speed. The highest wind speed is found in the DJF (Transition I) season. Maximum Hs (wave height) is found in DJF season, while Hs tends to be high in SON (Transition II) as well as DJF (Western Season), and Hs tends to be weak in MAM (Transition I) season.