Effect of the oat, horse chestnut, cowherb, soy, quinoa and soapwort extracts on skin-mimicking monolayers and cell lines

The main goal of the study was to compare the effect of aqueous extracts of oat (Avena sativa L.), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum L.), quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.), soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.), cowherb (Vaccaria hispanica [P. Mill.] Rauschert) and soy (Glycine max L.) on model lipid monolayers mimicking the lipid membrane of keratinocytes and intercellular lipids of stratum corneum, and on human skin-related cell lines. Two lipid monolayers, consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) and cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3 and Ceramide VI, stearic acid and cholesterol in a molar ratio of 1:1:0.7, and two cell lines (human keratinocyte HaCaT and human skin malignant melanoma A375) were employed. None of the extracts reduced surface pressure below the level achieved for bare monolayers. The strength of the effect on the lipid monolayers (horse chestnut > cowherb > soapwort > soy) points to the existence of some specific interactions responsible for the observed affinity of biosurfactants from the extracts to the lipids in the monolayers. The cytotoxicity tests performed with two model skin cell lines showed that all six plants extracts significantly reduced the cells' viability in a concentration-dependent way. The model lipid monolayers were not solubilized by the investigated surface-active extracts. The latter thus proved interesting candidates for application in mild cleansing cosmetic formulations. Penetration of the monolayers by surface-active components of some extracts, especially horse chestnut, cowherb and soapwort, opens new possibilities for topical delivery of active components.