Skin Exfoliation With Low Concentrations Of Alpha Hydroxy Acids And Poly Hydroxy Acids When Incorporated Into Wash-Off Or Leave-On Products Using A Novel Abbreviated Model To Measure Cell Turnover Rate
JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN ACADEMY OF DERMATOLOGY(2021)
Abstract
Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are known for enhancing skin cell turnover rate. Typically, 8-10% concentrations have been evaluated for their exfoliation potential. Glycolic acid and gluconolactone at 2% in a cleanser and leave-on cream along with a 1% lactobionic acid cream were assessed for cell turnover rate. A novel, abbreviated clinical method to assess skin cell turnover rate using fluorescence staining of the stratum corneum was conducted. Dansyl chloride 5% was applied to volar forearms under occlusion for an abbreviated time of 6 hours. Digital photographs were taken under ultraviolet light over 7 days; images were analyzed to determine fluorescent intensity. Products in standardized vehicles were applied twice daily. Additionally, a 2% gluconolactone body lotion was evaluated for consumer perception of benefit after 2 weeks of daily use. Cell turnover rate was significantly increased for all formulations at these lower concentrations (P ˂ .05). The 2% glycolic acid cleanser (n = 34) and cream (n = 31), the 2% gluconolactone cleanser (n = 34) and cream (n = 32) and the 1% lactobionic acid cream (n = 32) all demonstrated an increase in exfoliation (time to 50% reduction of dye) compared with untreated (P ˂ .05). Consumers noted corresponding skin cell turnover benefits of the 2% gluconolactone body lotion (n = 34) including: skin is lightly exfoliated (94%); skin feels renewed (100%); dry, dull skin is revitalized (97%); and skin texture is smoother (100%). AHAs and PHAs are well-known exfoliators. In cleanser or cream form and at concentrations of 1-2%, meaningful increases in cell turnover rate were noted with consumer perceivable exfoliation benefits.
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Key words
skin exfoliation,cell turnover incorporated,hydroxy acids,poly hydroxy acids,wash-off
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