Multiphoton imaging in cosmetics research

There is an increasing need in cosmetic research for non-invasive, high content, skin imaging techniques offering the possibility to avoid performing invasive biopsies and to supply a maximum of information on skin state throughout a study, especially before, during and after product application. Multiphoton microscopy is one of these techniques compatible with in vitro and in vivo investigations of human skin, allowing its three-dimensional (3D) structure to be characterized with sub-mu m resolution. Various intra-/extra-cellular constituents present specific endogenous two-photon excited fluorescence and second harmonic generation signals enabling a non-invasive visualization of the 3D structure of epidermal and superficial dermal layers. In association with fluorescence lifetime imaging (FLIM) and specific 3D image processing, one can extract several quantitative parameters characterizing skin constituents in terms of morphology, density and function. Multiphoton FLIM applications in cosmetic research range from knowledge to efficacy evaluation studies. Knowledge studies aim at acquiring a better understanding of appearing skin differences, for example, with aging, solar exposure or between the different skin phototypes. Evaluation studies deal with efficacy assessment of cosmetic ingredients in anti-aging or whitening domains. When using other nonlinear optics phenomena such as CARS (Coherent Anti-Stokes Raman Scattering), multiphoton imaging opens up the possibility of characterizing the cosmetic ingredients distribution inside the skin and founds application in other cosmetic domains such as hydration or antiperspirants. Developments in user-friendly, ultrasensitive, compact, multimodal imaging systems, on-the-fly data analysis and the synthesis of cosmetic ingredients with non-linear optical properties will certainly allow trespassing the todays frontiers of cosmetic applications.