The structure of archaeological textiles from the early and high middle ages in finds from the czech republic (part 2)

Proto-lampas is a weave composed of a main warp, a binding warp and two weft systems a ground weft and a pattern weft which, depending on the demands of the pattern, run either on the obverse or reverse of the fabric. The warp threads are often grouped in the ratio of two main warp threads to one binding warp thread. The ground is in an extended tabby weave and is composed of all warp threads and the ground weft, the pattern weft lies beneath the main warp and interlaces with the binding warp in a 1.2 twill S on the face. The pattern is composed of the pattern weft, which lies above the main warp and is connected by a binding warp in a 1.2 twill S on the face; the ground weft is in a tabby weave. The proportion of ground wefts to the pattern wefts in the following order is characteristic: one ground weft, one pattern weft, one ground weft, two pattern wefts (see 1.1). Other variants also exist (see 1.2).