In-situ spectroscopic analysis of the traditional dyeing pigment Turkey red inside textile matrix

Turkey red is a traditional pigment for textile dyeing and its use has been proven for various cultures within the last three millennia. The pigment is a dye-mordant complex consisting of Al and an extract from R. tinctorum that contains mainly the anthraquinone derivative alizarin. The chemical structure of the complex has been analyzed by various spectroscopic and crystallographic techniques for extractions from textiles or directly in solution. We present an in-situ study of Turkey red by means of mu-XRF mapping and NEXAFS spectroscopy on textile fibres dyed according to a traditional process to gain insight into the coordination chemistry of the pigment in realistic matrix. We find an octahedral coordination of Al that corresponds well to the commonly accepted structure of the Al alizarin complex derived from ex-situ studies.